Barilotti

Foto: Leonardo Ciampa

I barilotti sono una forma di pasta che qui in America sta guadagnando popolarità, grazie ai supermercati Wegmans. Anche un’altra catena americana, Dorothy Lane Markets, lo vende. Tuttavia, sembra che entrambe le società americane ottengano il prodotto dal Pastificio di Bari Tarall’oro, un meraviglioso pastificio fondato nel 1982. A differenza di altri produttori di pasta che usano "il miglior grano del mondo" (traduzione: grano dall’estero!), Tarall’oro ottiene tutto il suo grano da Le Murge, un bellissimo altopiano pugliese-lucano. Il Barilotti è una forma casalinga, fatta con il pollice contro un rigagnocchi. In sostanza, sono gnocchi sottili, ovvero gnocchi fatti con l’impasto normale della pasta – acqua, semolino e sale, basta (niente patate, niente ricotta ecc.). La bellezza della seguente ricetta è che, oltre alla pasta, l’unico ingrediente che si deve cuocere è l’aglio. (Teoricamente potreste usare l’aglio crudo ... Ma è qualcosa che si fa raramente nel Sud e mai nel Nord. In questo piatto l’aglio saltato è più saporito e meno potente. Ma, se sia una giornata calda di agosto, e non vogliate accendere i fornelli ...  ) Ingredients 500 gr barilotti 340 gr (2 scatolette) di tonno italiano, confezionato in olio d’oliva (non buttare l’olio) alcuni spicchi d’aglio, tritati e saltati in una padellina con poco olio d’oliva (non troppo olio, perché già ci avete l’olio saporito del tonno) sedano fresco, tritato olive di Kalamata, scolate capperi, scolati (e, se confezionati sotto sale, risciacquati bene) peperoncino secco sale & pepe prezzemolo fresco, tritato (non ce l’avevo a disposizione) 1/2 limone a persona (servito al tavolo) un pizzico di origano fresco (facoltativo – io non lo uso. Praticamente non cucino mai con l’origano, che non considero un ingrediente prominente nella cucina italiana. Comunque la pasta e tonno è uno dei pochi piatti in cui l’origano si può permettere.) Nota bene: non usare il formaggio grattugiato, che non è consentito con i frutti di mare.

Barilotti ("little barrels") are a pasta shape that here in America is gaining in popularity, thanks to Wegmans supermarkets. Another American chain, Dorothy Lane Markets, also sells it. However, it appears that both American companies obtain the product from Pastificio di Bari Tarall'oro, a wonderful pasta maker founded in 1982. Unlike other pasta makers who use "the best wheat in the world" (translation: wheat from outside of Italy!), Tarall'oro gets all of its wheat from Le Murge, a beautiful plateau in the regions of Apulia and Basilicata. Barilotti is a homestyle pasta shape, made with the thumb against a gnocchi board. Basically, they are a thin gnocchi, that is gnocchi made with a normal pasta dough – water, semolina, and salt, that's it (no potatoes, no ricotta, etc.). The beauty of the following recipe is that, besides the pasta, the only ingredient that needs to be cooked is the garlic. (Theoretically you could use raw garlic ... But this is something that is done rarely in Southern Italy and never in Northern Italy.  In this dish the sauteed garlic is tastier and less overpowering.  However, if it is a hot day in August, and you don't want to turn on the stove ... )  Ingredienti 1 lb barilotti 340 gr (2 cans) Italian tuna, packed in olive oil (don't throw away the oil) several garlic cloves, chopped e sauteed in a small skillet in a little olive oil (not too much oil, because you already have the tasty oil from the tuna) fresh celery, chopped Kalamata olives, drained capers, drained (and, if packed in salt, rinsed well) crushed red pepper salt & pepper fresh parsley, chopped (I did not have any on hand) 1/2 lemon per person (served at the table) a pinch of fresh oregano (optional – I do not use it. I virtually never cook with oregano, which I do not consider to be a prominent ingredient in Italian cooking. However, pasta & tuna is one of the few dishes in which oregano is permitted.) Note well: do not use grating cheese, which is not permitted with seafood.

Site: Taralloro.it

Rigagnocchi. Notate la somiglianza fra gli gnocchi nella foto e i barilotti più sottili là sopra.
Rigagnocchi (gnocchi board). Note the similarity between the gnocchi in the photo and the thinner barilotti above.

Foto: Taralloro.it

Foto: Taralloro.it

Le Murge, bell’altopiano pugliese-lucano ove si ottiene tutto il grano per la pasta Tarall’oro.
Le Murge, beautiful plateau in Apulia and Basilicata where Tarall'oro obtains all of its flour.

Pasta Giulio

Giulio Beniamino Ciampa (età 7 anni) è il più piccolo dei miei quattro figli maschi. Lui ha inventato questa ricetta – anche se insiste che l’abbia inventato io. Ciononostante, contiene tutti i suoi ingredienti preferiti. E lui mi ha assicurato stasera, “Daddy, questo è il mio piatto di pasta preferito.” La ricetta è semplice semplice semplice. Il sapore è buono buono buono. Ingredienti 500 gr ziti tagliati lisci 500 gr cimette di cavolfiore, al vapore mezzo panetto di burro (55-60 gr) 2 limoni, dimezzati sale & pepe q.b. pecorino grattugiato al momento Preparazione Fate cucinare il cavolfiore al vapore. (Anche se io sostenga le verdura fresca e bio, in generale ... Le cimette di cavolfiore congelate, che potreste cucinare nel microonde, senza nemmeno dover tirarle fuori dalla confezione ... È troppo facile!!!) Nel frattempo, fate cucinare gli ziti in abbondante acqua salata (c. 7 minuti).  Una volta cotta, scolatela e combinate con il cavolfiore e il burro. Alla tavola, limone (mezzo limone a persona), pecorino, sale e pepe. E buon appetito! Post scriptum Giulio affermò chiaramente che in questa ricetta il cavolfiore potrebbe essere sostituito con i broccoli, che – disse lui – sarebbero anche deliziosi.

Giulio Beniamino Ciampa (age 7) is the youngest of my four sons. He invented this recipe – even if he insists that I invented it. That notwithstanding, it contains all of his favorite ingredients. And he assured me this evening, "Daddy, this is my favorite pasta dish." The recipe is very, very simple. The taste is very, very good. Ingredients 1 lb ziti without the lines 1 lb cauliflower florets, steamed 1/2 stick butter 2 lemons, halved salt & pepper to taste freshly grated pecorino Preparation Steam the cauliflower. (Even though I advocate fresh, organic vegetables, in general ... Frozen cauliflower florets, that you can microwave, without even having to take them out of the package ... It's too easy!!!) Meanwhile, boil the ziti in abundant salted water (c. 7 minutes). Once cooked, drain, and combine with the cauliflower and butter. At the table, lemon (half lemon per person), pecorino, salt, and pepper,  And buon appetito! P.S. Giulio stated very clearly that in this recipe, the cauliflower could be substituted with broccoli, which – he said – would also be delicious.

Fettuccine con prosciutto cotto & limone (ricetta romana) / Fettuccine with ham & lemon (Roman recipe)

Varie marche di fettuccine artigianali che si possono comprare qui in America. Mi frustra che non riesca a trovare le fettuccine del Lazio, la regione stessa ove le fettuccine sono la più famose! Se qualcuno ne conosca una ... (Collage di Leonardo Ciampa)
Various brands of artisanal fettuccine that one may buy here in America. It frustrates me that I cannot find fettuccine from Lazio, the very region where fettuccine are the most famous! If someone knows of one ... (Collage by Leonardo Ciampa)

Trent’anni fa un’amico mi preparò questa ricetta, affermando che apparteneva alla tradizione romana. Fu così deliziosa che, fino ad oggi, mi ricordo chiaramente la ricetta. Anche se non l’abbia trovato in nessun libro di cucina, per motivi stilistici la considero autenticamente romana. È ideale per l’estate – non solo per la presenza del limone, ma anche perché il condimento richiede soli 3 o 4 minuti di stare sopra i fornelli caldi. N.B.: Con tutte le semplici ricette classiche di pochi ingredienti, è importante non abbellirle né aggiungervi ingredienti. La pasta classica per questo piatto è fettuccine, così essenziale per la cucina romana. Tuttavia, qualsiasi altra pasta sarebbe sicuramente deliziosa. Questo piatto è amato da tutti in famiglia, anche il bambino di sei anni. Ingrediente 500 gr fettuccine 125 gr prosciutto cotto affettato, tagliato a quadratini succo di 1 limone 2 spicchi d’aglio, tritati 1/2 panetto (60 gr) di burro  sale q.b. abbondante pepe nero, appena macinato abbondante pecorino romano, grattugiato frescamente alla tavola. Preparazione In una padella, fate sciogliere il burro, aggiungete l’aglio e fatelo saltare per un minuto o due (non bruciarlo). Aggiungete il prosciutto cotto e, dopo solo 1 minuto, spegnete la fiamma, aggiungete il limone, sale e pepe, e coprite. Alla tavola aggiungete abbondante pecorino romano grattugiato al momento.

Thirty years ago a friend made this recipe for me, saying that it was from the Roman tradition. It was so delicious that, to this day, I clearly remember the recipe. Though I have not found it in any cookbook, on stylistic grounds I consider it authentically Roman. It is ideal for summertime – not only because of the presence of the lemon, but also because the sauce requires only 3 or 4 minutes of standing over a hot stove. Note: With any simple, classic recipe with few ingredients, it is important not to embellish or add ingredients. The classic pasta for this dish is fettuccine, so essential to Roman cuisine. This dish is loved by everyone in the household, even the six-year-old. Ingredients 1 lb fettuccine 1/4 lb sliced ham, cut in little squares juice of 1 lemon 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1/2 stick butter salt, to taste copious black pepper, freshly ground copious pecorino romano, freshly grated at the table. Preparation In a pan, melt the butter, add the garlic and saute for a minute or two (don’t burn). Add the ham, and after only 1 minute, shut the heat, add the lemon, salt and pepper, and cover. At the table, add copious pecorino romano, freshly grated at the moment.

Soffi di limone / Lemon puffs

Raramente pubblico ricette per i dolci. Non ho una golosità di dolci. Anche il caffè prendo amaro. Tuttavia, mia bella moglie Jeanette mi ha fatto questi, sapendo che il sapore di limone e la leggerezza mi piacerebbero tanto. (Notate che la ricetta non richiede uova.) Questi biscotti semplici ma saporiti farebbero un finale perfetto per un pasto italiano di stile casereccio. Ingredienti 60 g zucchero a velo 170 g (1½ panetti) burro ½ cucchiaino sale (preferibilmente extra-fine) 2 cucchiaini estratto di limone 65 g amido di mais 130 g farina multiuso, non sbiancata Preparazione Preriscaldate il forno a 150º C. Preparate due teglie per biscotti, o ungendole leggermente, o foderandole con carta pergamena.  (Invece di pergamena, Jeanette usa i tappetini in gomma siliconica.)  In una ciotola di medie dimensioni, mescolate lo zucchero, il burro, il sale, ed estratto finché cremosi. Aggiungete l’amido e la farina. Mescolate l’impasto finché coeso. Con un cucchiaio, fate cadere l’impasto sulle teglie unte. Fateli cuocere per 25 minuti, o finché leggermente dorati. Togliete le teglie dal forno. Fate rimanere i biscotti sulle teglie per 5 minuti. Poi rimuoveteli e disponeteli su una griglia per raffreddare.

I rarely post recipes for sweets.  I do not have a sweet tooth.  Even my espresso I drink black.  However, my beautiful wife Jeanette made me these, knowing that I would love their lemon flavor and their lightness. (Note that the recipe doesn't call for eggs.) These simple but flavorful cookies would make a perfect finale to a homestyle Italian meal. Ingredients ½ C (2 oz.) confectioners' sugar ¾ C (1½ sticks, 6 oz.) butter ½ tsp salt (preferably extra-fine) 2 tsp lemon extract ½ C (2 oz.) cornstarch 1 C (4¼ oz.) unbleached all-purpose flour Preparation Preheat oven to 300º F.  Prepare two baking pans, either by greasing them lightly, or by lining them with parchment paper.  (Instead of parchment, Jeanette uses baking pads made of silicone rubber.)  In a medium-sized bowl, mix the sugar, butter, salt, and extract until creamy. Add the cornstarch and flour.  Stir until the dough is cohesive.  With a tablespoon, drop the dough onto the greased baking sheets.  Bake for 25 minutes, or until lightly golden brown.  Remove the baking sheets from the oven.  Let the cookies remain on the sheets for 5 minutes.  Then remove them and place them on a rack to cool.

The 50th Post: "Engagement Chicken"

(Cliccate qua per la versione italiana.)

For the fiftieth post of Pensieri Meridionali, I wanted to offer you something special and unique. (This English translation is technically the fifty-first post, but I wanted my English-speaking readers to enjoy it, as well.)

According to many critics, Marcella Hazan (née Polini) is the founder of Italian cuisine in the English-speaking world. Her cookbooks have sold millions of copies. And her most famous recipe is probably also the simpliest one. Roast Chicken with Two Lemons appeared in the classic book Essentials of Italian Cooking. Once, a women's magazine ran the recipe. It elicited an incredible number of letters. More than one woman wrote, "I made this dish for my boyfriend, and he proposed to me!" The magazine published the recipe again, only this time with the new title "Engagement Chicken"!

In English, this recipe can be found in hundreds of places on the Internet. In Italian, it did not appear anywhere. My translation in the previous post, therefore, was the first Italian translation of this legendary recipe every to appear in Cyberspace. Buon appetito!

ROAST CHICKEN WITH LEMONS
by Marcella Hazan

If this were a still life its title could be "Chicken with Two Lemons." That is all that there is in it. No fat to cook with, no basting to do, no stuffing to prepare, no condiments except for salt and pepper. After you put the chicken in the oven you turn it just once. The bird, its two lemons, and the oven do all the rest. Again and again, through the years, I meet people who come up to me to say, "I have made your chicken with two lemons and it is the most amazingly simple recipe, the juiciest, best-tasting chicken I have ever had." And you know, it is perfectly true.

Serves 4

3- to 4-pound chicken
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
2 rather small lemons

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Wash the chicken thoroughly in cold water, both inside and out. Remove all the bits of fat hanging loose. Let the bird sit for about 10 minutes on a slightly tilted plate to let all the water drain out of it. Pat it thoroughly dry all over with cloth or paper towels.

3. Sprinkle a generous amount of salt and black pepper on the chicken, rubbing it with your fingers over all its body and into its cavity.

4. Wash the lemons in cold water and dry them with a towel. Soften each lemon by placing it on a counter and rolling it back and forth as you put firm downward pressure on it with the palm of your hand. Puncture the lemons in at least 20 places each, using a sturdy round toothpick, a trussing needle, a sharp-pointed fork, or similar implement.

5. Place both lemons in the bird's cavity. Close up the opening with toothpicks or with trussing needle and string. Close it well, but don't make an absolutely airtight job of it because the chicken may burst. Run kitchen string from one leg to the other, tying it at both knuckle ends. Leave the legs in their natural position without pulling them tight. If the skin is unbroken, the chicken will puff up as it cooks, and the string serves only to keep the thighs from spreading apart and splitting the skin.

6. Put the chicken into a roasting pan, breast facing down. Do not add cooking fat of any kind. This bird is self-basting, so you need not fear it will stick to the pan. Place it in the upper third of the preheated oven. After 30 minutes, turn the chicken over to have the breast face up. When turning it, try not to puncture the skin. If kept intact, the chicken will swell like a balloon, which makes for an arresting presentation at the table later. Do not worry too much about it, however, because even if it fails to swell, the flavor will not be affected.

7. Cook for another 30 to 35 minutes, then turn the oven thermostat up to 400 degrees, and cook for an additional 20 minutes. Calculate between 20 and 25 minutes total cooking time for each pound. There is no need to turn the chicken again.

8. Whether your bird has puffed up or not, bring it to the table whole and leave the lemons inside until it is carved and opened. The juices that run out are perfectly delicious. Be sure to spoon them over the chicken slices. The lemons will have shriveled up, but they still contain some juice; do not squeeze them, they may squirt.

Ahead-of-time note: If you want to eat it while it is warm, plan to have it the moment it comes out of the oven. If there are leftovers, they will be very tasty cold, kept moist with some of the cooking juices and eaten not straight out of the refrigerator, but at room temperature.

From Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (Knopf, 1992).
Italian translation by Leonardo Ciampa.

"The Engagement Chicken speaks to two things that many women understand: the desire to enter a contractual arrangement in which you'll file joint tax returns with a man, and poultry."  
– Jessica Coen (itheedread.jezebel.com)