Pasta e tonno / Pasta with tuna

Here in Massachusetts, spring has certainly not arrived. Yesterday, a powerful blizzard clobbered Cape Cod and the islands, including Nantucket which received 9½ inches of snow and which experienced wind gusts of more than 80 miles per hour (higher than hurricane force). At Jonesport, Maine, there were gusts of 114 miles per hour! In Boston, the temperature descended to 25 degrees. But today, in my herb garden, under the leaves, there they were: new sprigs of oregano. The first new herbs of spring! It was perfect timing, because today I had an incredible craving for pasta with tuna.

Qui nel Massachusetts, certamente la primavera  non è ancora arrivata. Ieri, una potente tormenta ha colpito Cape Cod e le isole, tra cui Nantucket, che ha ricevuto 24 cm di neve e che ha provato le raffiche di vento più di 130 km all’ora (superiore alla forza di uragano). A Jonesport, Maine, ci sono state raffiche di 183 km all’ora! A Boston, la temperatura è scesa a -4 gradi. Ma oggi, nel mio orticello di odori, sotto le foglie, eccoli: nuovi rametti di origano. Le prime nuove erbe di primavera! È stato un tempismo perfetto, perché oggi ho avuto un desiderio incredibile per la pasta al tonno.

Ingredienti 500 gr zitoni tagliati (Divella #31) 140 gr tonno, in olio d’oliva 1 piccola cipolla, tritata 1 spicchio d’aglio, dimezzato ¼ grumolo medio, oppure ½ grumolo piccolo, di finocchio, tritato capperi, ben sciacquati olive kalamata un pizzico di sale marino pepe nero, frescamente macinato origano fresco olio d’oliva extravergine (niente formaggio) Preparazione Solamente la cipolla, l’aglio, e il finocchio vengono cotti; il resto è aggiunto crudo.  Quindi, fate scaldare l’olio nella padella e fate saltare quei tre ingredienti finché traslucenti (non rosolati). Spegnete, aggiungete gli altri ingredienti, combinate con gli zitoni (cotti nel modo normale), e Buon Appetito! Varianti Dopo di far saltare i tre ingredienti, si può sfumare con vino bianco. Il finocchio s’ammorbidisce e prende dentro il sapore del vino. È strepitoso! Per fare questo piatto in rosso, frullate 600/800 gr pomodori nel frullatore. Nella padella che ha gli ortaggi saltati (e il vino), aggiungete i pomodori e fateli cuocere per 15/20 di minuti. Spegnete e aggiungete gli altri ingredienti.

Ingredients 1 lb zitoni tagliati (Divella #31) 5 oz solid tuna, in olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, halved ¼ medium bulb, or ½ small bulb, fennel, chopped capers, rinsed well kalamata olives a pinch of sea salt freshly-ground black pepper fresh oregano extravirgin olive oil (no cheese) Preparation Only the onion, garlic, and fennel are cooked; the rest is added raw.  Therefore, heat the oil in the skillet and sauté those three ingredients until translucent (not browned). Shut the flame, add the other ingredients, combine with the zitoni (cooked in the normal way), and Buon Appetito! Variants After sautéeing the three ingredients, you can add white wine and simmer them.  The fennel will soften and take in the flavor of the wine.  It is sensational! To make the red version of this dish, blend 21-28 oz. tomatoes in the blender.  In the pan that has the sautéed vegetables (and wine), add the tomatoes and cook for 15-20 minutes. Shut the flame and add the other ingredients.

European Sea Bass in Parchment

(Per la versione italiana di questo post, cliccate qua: http://losfiziogoloso.blogspot.com/2011/03/branzino-al-cartoccio.html)

Of the many Italian foodblogs that I read regularly, one of my favorites is the wonderfully titled Lo Sfizio Goloso ("The Gluttonous Whim") by Serena Comacchio.  This is a wonderful recipe, and it fills a void on Pensieri Meridionali, which at present contains very few seafood recipes.

Note that it is much easier to replicate a meat recipe than a fish recipe.  Invariably, sea creatures that are common in America are rare in Europe, and vice versa.  (Would you believe, for instance, that scallops are very rare in Italy?)

European sea bass (Latin Dicentrarchus labrax, Northern Italian branzino, Southern Italian spigola)
Photo: Wikipedia

The European sea bass (called branzino in Northern Italy, spigola in Southern Italy) does not exist in America.  On the Atlantic coast there is the Black sea bass (Centropristis striata), on the Pacific coast the White sea bass (Atractoscion nobilis).  Note, however, that these are different families of bass.

Branzino (Spigola) al Cartoccio

European Sea Bass in Parchment

by Serena Comacchio

I adore this recipe, which my mother passed onto me.  It was written in a little, old notebook with yellowed pages ... the typical personal cookbook that you save for years with much care and a little  jealousy.  

What do you say, shall we try it together?

Ingredients for 2 people:

• 2 sea bass
• 1 medium-size tomato
• 1 lemon
• extra-virgin olive oil
• white wine
• garlic
• rosemary
• bay leaves
• oregano
• salt

Preparation

Heat the oven to 350°.

Clean the fish, taking out the entrails (or, have the fish vendor do it for you and save time), and run water over the inside of the belly, to get rid of any residue.  

Open the belly of the fish and put a little salt, rosemary, bay leaves, and one garlic clove, halved (one half per fish).   

Grease two pieces of parchment paper with the olive oil, and carefully place the fish on top (one piece of paper per fish). Drizzle with a little olive oil, and add a pinch of salt.

Thinly slice the lemon and tomato, and arrange the slices over the fish.  (You decide the quantity.)  Put another bit of rosemary and some oregano, and pour white wine on top. 

Carefully seal the parchment paper, as in the photo, and bake the fish for 15-20 minutes. 

When the fish have finished cooking, take them out of the oven, bone them, and serve, perhaps accompanied by mashed potatoes or a mixed salad. 

Buon appetito!